My girlfriend and I decided to spend a week in Croatia this summer. For this first trip to the country, we chose to concentrate on the southern islands, which are relatively uncrowded.
We had booked our accommodation and flights online, but we hadn’t yet decided on our means of transport. We knew we’d be taking the boats, but we decided to rent a car on each of the islands.
There are few hotels on the islands. Our accommodations were independent apartment rentals.
Vehicle#
We rented a car on each of the islands, notably from MiniBum in Mljet and Prizmic in Vela Luka (Korčula). An alternative solution would have been to rent a car in Dubrovnik, but this leaves less flexibility for the boats.
Route#
Day 1: Evening departure from Paris, arrival in Dubrovnik#
We had picked an accommodation close to the ferry port of Dubrovnik to be able to catch the boat early the next day.
Day 2: Arrival on the island of Mljet, visit to the National Park, and Odysseus Cave (Odisejeva špilja)#
Our boat got us to Mljet in the morning. We made the mistake of taking a cab to our accommodation, when we should have rented a car directly from the port.
We then headed for the National Park on the other side of the island for a walk. Entrance to the park includes a boat to a small island with a monastery.
We took advantage of the setting to swim a little, then took the boat back to Mali most, the bridge separating the small and large lakes. We then walked around the large lake. Make sure you bring plenty of water - it’s very hot!
We finally took a dip on the other side of the large lake, at the second bridge, where the lake water exchanges with the seawater, generating a natural current.
After another car journey, we ended the day at the Odysseus cave, which consists of a chasm and a tunnel leading into the cave from the sea. The site also makes for great diving. The passage through the tunnel offers magnificent blue colors.
Day 3: Visit to Saplunara and arrival on the island of Lastovo#
We started the day with a stop at Prožurska Luka and Okuklje.
Before taking the boat in the early afternoon for the island of Lastovo, we went to enjoy Saplunara, with its sandy beach. It’s a busy place with lots of boats. We had lunch at the Franka restaurant, which serves traditional grilled meats on a shaded terrace overlooking the bay.
After the boat ride, we collected our car and headed for our accommodation, which offered a superb panorama of Zaklopatica Bay. We ended the day by enjoying the sea just below our apartment.
Day 4: Visit to former military sites, rest, and stars#
We started the day by visiting Lastovo’s former military sites, including the submarine tunnels and Jurjev Vrh.
After a quick lunch, we took advantage of the nearby lighthouse in the bay of Skrivena Luka for a swim. We also took a look at the nearby cliffs.
On the way back, we climbed up to Lastovo Castle, which can’t be visited, and headed down to see the bays of Lučica and Sveti Mihovil.
At the end of the day, we enjoyed dinner on our terrace.
Finally, a local association offered an evening of stargazing near Mount Hum.
Day 5: Arrival on the island of Korčula#
Before leaving, we wanted to visit the bunkers. However, the road seemed forbidden, so we didn’t continue on foot.
We took our scheduled boat at lunchtime after a quick tour of the former military base, and then collected our car. Beware, it’s a bit of a walk from the ferry port to Vela Luka.
It takes about an hour by car to cross the island. We stopped off at our accommodation in Račišće and then headed off for a swim towards Lumbarda.
Our accommodation meant we had to do quite a bit of driving each time.
Day 6: Kayak#
Our day was dedicated to a kayak trip. We rented a double kayak from Oreb Club International and sailed to the islands of Vrnik, Kamenjak, Planjak and Badija. Be careful, there are lots of sea urchins.
We ended the day with the Sword Dance show in Korcula.
Day 7: Visit to Žitna and Pupnatska Luka#
After buying some olive oil, we went for a swim in Žitna. The setting is very pleasant, even if a little crowded.
We then went to Pupnatska Luka to finish the day. This place is a little more touristy than the previous one.
Day 8: Visit to Vela Spila and return to Dubrovnik#
Before catching the boat and returning our car, we visited the Vela Spila cave. This is a fairly small archaeological site. The entrance fee is low, so it’s still a good place to visit.
To make the most of Dubrovnik, we took the Dubrovnik pass, which includes public transport and visits to certain sites, including the city walls. If you don’t want to visit the city walls or all the museums, we wouldn’t recommend this pass.
Day 9: Tour of Dubrovnik’s Old Town and return to Paris#
After dropping off our luggage, we headed for the city walls. We enjoyed the view of the sea and the old town. We also visited the various museums included in the pass.
We then enjoyed a final meal in the city before boarding our plane for Paris at the end of the day.
Budget#
Many shops do not accept payment cards. It is therefore important to bring cash with you. What’s more, most ATMs charge a fee of around €5.
We spent around €1,500 per person all-inclusive, including flights. This includes accommodation, food, activities, transport and other expenses (petrol, souvenirs, etc.).
Music#
The car journeys were too noisy due to the air conditioning or open windows, so we didn’t listen to any music.